Showing posts with label Terrain. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Terrain. Show all posts

11 July, 2015

Home-made battlefield terrain! Watchtower 1.0

To start off, I measured a handfull infantry models, to know how big these buildings have to be. I also started toying around with a software I got introduced to in school (studying electric/electronic/medical engineering), mainly used for designing both indoor and outdoor lighting for buildings, called DIALux. A simple enough 3D-modelling software, in which I could design my buildings somewhat easily, and see exactly how large something must be, etc. etc. etc...

...speaking of unit-measurements, have you ever heard of a rule, saying "Measure twice, cut once"? Yea, so have I... Though I still measured only once, it bit me in the arse quite heavily (which will become obvious at the end).



The image-layout didn't want to work, so the top two pictures are placed awkwardly. Live with it.

Watchtower 1.0

I found an image online, and decided I want to create something similar. BEHOLD! A WATCHTOWER! ...now only to make my own...


Crude concept-drawing.
Planning-phase: 10 cm from ground to tower-floor, 9 cm width to house 3x3 units (9 units max), and still be within 6 inches for squad coherency with ground-floor units. The base-pillars would be supported by cross-beams, all made of plastic. Base-pillars would reach all the way up to the roof of the cabin to support the roof. Cross-beams would have one of the beams cut in half to fit into eachother, and glued on a small cardboard-tile.

A word about concept-drawings, by the way... If you want to build something, don't just start building. Planning is half the work, and concent-drawings or sketches give you a good idea of what you're doing, and thoughts on how it'll be easiest to achieve.


DIALux 3D-model. Took me a couple hours to
figure out the software, and make something
I could be satisfied with.
The cabin would be 5 cm high to support the full height of units, and then some, for back-mounted banners or sword-waving lunatics. Walls would be made out of styro-foam, ceiling out of corrugated cardboard.
Building-phase: So, styro-foam is a no-no: it requires pre-handling or shite-tonnes of paint, which I don’t have. So, going to use cardboard for this, then! Double-layered corrugated cardboard again, filling the gaps with filler. Using the plastic frames from the model-material-frames for the posts.
The cabin-base, 3x3 units wide, with some Blood Claws to stand as models.
Cardboard for the walls around the base, had to make it double-layered to be thick enough. Again some top layer dents here and there for battle-damage.
Filler almost in place, we’re getting there! The sharp-eyed will notice holes in the floor, in the corners of the cabin. That's where the base-poles will come through!

Walls filled in, the units fit in there all good and proper. Next day's agenda: the base-poles.
Base-posts almost done! Turns out they’re a bitch to glue together, without glueing them to the table. Also, ladder is in progress… Don’t know how that’ll turn out, or even how to glue the pegs to the posts... Also: the cabin got its basecoat of black spray, painting it in the dark grey as the wall last time. Maybe going with a lighter sort of drybrush to have the blackness come through, don’t know yet...
The legs and the ladder are made from the unit-model-bases, right? The ladder was pure hell, because I decided to glue the steps inbetween the legs, instead of ontop or drilled in. Had to hold them there for quite a while until they dried, but it looks a lot nicer like this, in my opinion.
Ladder’s done, and the legs are in place. Got the cabin sprayed as well.
The Blood Claws are modelling ontop of the cabin. Need to make that hatch out of something, don’t know what yet, though...
Drybrushed dark grey on the cabin, and realized it made a LOT of a sweeter finish, than the ruined wall –bit I did on my first project, using only a thick layer of grey paint on black basecoat. The details, dents and cuts in the walls come out a lot clearer like this and it actually looks worn-out, rather than brand new! I don’t know yet if I’ll leave the white bits in the legs as they are, or if I’ll patch it up with grey... In other news, the roof-tiles are in a pile on the left side as well. Thinking of stripping the top-layer off to get a corrugated top (rain pouring straight downwards). Just need to figure out how to make a rust-coloring for it...
After browsing the net a bit again, I found something. How to create rusted sheet-metal! Awesome! So, for rust-effect: red – brown – metal, corrugated cardboard, ripping off the top-layer for the sheet-metal effect. First layer of red (Mephiston Red) looks good, no undercoat, and bottom-side got sprayed black because I can’t be bothered doing anything proper about it.
Then, the brown (Dryad Bark)...
And finally, the metallic grey (random acryllic dark grey)! Turned out alright! Too much grey was easily done over with a brown drybrushing. Fitting the roof ontop of the cabin was easy as one-two-three.
Only problem I ran into was the question of height. I first had the idea that it would only be a slit to shoot through; mounting wall to the roof, but after cutting the tower down to size it became apparent it wouldn’t really be possible... unless I wanted to heighten the roof by a couple centimeters...
As of right now, I’ll stick with this. One downside I noticed straight away that sword-waving lunatics are having a VERY hard time being inside the tower, due to the height (remember the "Measure twice, cut once" -rule? Yeah...). No-one carrying a banner can enter it either. OR I’ll just have the roof for dramatic reasons, and while in gameplay use it as an open-top, whilst saying “the roof is there”!
Finished product:

To raise the roof (and produce a slit to shoot through) I could easily just glue a piece of wall to the roof, and have said wall to rest on the base pegs, where the roof is now resting. Make the wall just so thick so it reaches the pegs and is safely an extension, but not going all through as to leave a ceiling for banners to get stuck on...


THOUGHTS:

  • Only drybrushing the walls make them seem older, more worn, compared to slapping on a thick layer of paint
  • Going open-topped allows units to actually be placed into a structure (or removed as casualties) during gameplay
  • Plan for way more space. Model-base is 3 cm wide, I planned for character-width (arms and all) to be 4 cm, and it's TIGHT! Same goes for height. Model height is 4 cm, planned height was 5 cm. A little bit was taken off for thickness of the floor, and the banners/idols/sword-waving is way higher than 5 cm. "Measure twice, cut once" really shines here...

AFTER EVERYTHING WAS DONE:

...so, I tried fitting in a terminator in the tower... Terminators have the Bulky -special rule, sure (Bulky models count as two models for the purposes of transport capacity), BUT COME ON!!! ONLY 3 FIT IN THERE?!

WH40k home-made battlefield terrain! A simple wall corner

Always start out small. Always. Dream big, yes, but start small.

My girlfriend got her box of a Tau starter pack. She's a lot slower to assemble/paint her models (she doesn't have the burning passion I have, but I can't blame her), so I started doing some terrain, while waiting for her to catch up! And, as stated, I started small, experimenting on a simple piece of ruined wall...


Runied wall corner

"Knock knock, motherfekkers!"
So, I started looking around online for how to do it... My brother has an old bunker, made out of an old ice-cream jug. It's perfectly octagonal, quite okay height, so he just cut a hole for a door, and slapped on a ladder, made out of model-frame-sticks!
Starting small, yeah! But I wanted to create something from scratch, something of my own... So, I looked online, and found a nice site! Thought I'd make a small piece of ruined wall, the corner of a building, with tile flooring, and some sand/overgrowth to show it's wear-and-tear. Me and my girlfriend had just bought a new computer monitor for her birthday, so I had an abundance of two-layered corrugated cardboard for the walls and the base. I had tape, glue, scissors... And I even found some concrete-filler, from when we painted our living-room wall (fill in some old screw-holes), which. Is. BRILLIANT!!! Using an oblivious Blood Claw here as a measuring-stick, just to double-check the height of walls as I go. Small markings in the cardboard to mark which side is in contact with which piece where. Oh, the Blood Claw? I think I shall call him Nick.

Holes and "dents" easily made by ripping out the top-most layer of cardboard, with the help of scissors and a pencil. Adds a little "war-torn" kind of a feel to them.
After checking online for ideas on how to fill in the top and side –areas of the cardboard (the corrugated stuff), and reading about using masking tape (and then maskin the ENTIRE piece with filler), I decided to just fill the tops and sides with concrete-filler I had at home. Ended up quite neat! I used filler on the holes and dents as well, to make it feel more realistic in some areas, whereas others were left without it, to show inner pipes/workings of the walls. I’ll have to try some day with using filler on the entire wall with a brush, to create that crusty feel to them...

Walls and base, glued together, using a standard paper-glue -stick.
Spray-painted with everybody’s favourite Games Workshop black basecoat, and it looks quite nice, if I may say so myself!
Tiles for the floor! I’m going for floor-tiles that are a bit worn, due to overgrowth and battle-damage. Cracks and missing bits where the craters are in the floor, and going to glue sand inbetween the floortiles. How? Painting the tiles, putting a layer of glue on the floor, tiles and sand in simultaneously. Boom. Done. The tiles are made out of thin cardboard, from a cereal box.
Time for the glue! Who wants a sniff? Heh... Painting the floor-tiles and the inner walls before bringing out the glue, though… BUT FIRST! Dark grey on the walls! Turned out WAAAY better than expected, aaaaand I put a BIT too much color out… Note to self: use VERY little paint. Oh, and the paint? Some random acryllic dark grey I bought at a hobby-store, WAY cheaper than GW's paints...
That corner is mostly filling. The glue holds the cardboard temporarily together, whereas the filling, once dried, will REALLY hold it together.
In hindsight, it would've been a better idea to paint the tiles glossy side instead of the cardboardy-side. EVERY small imprint on the thin cardboard is visible, but oh well. The sand glued on quite well! The color here was a random acryllic light-grey, bought at a hobby-store. Much cheaper than GW's paints!
...aaaand Nick's in trouble... Told you he's oblivious!
What would YOU do, when you're chased by 3 terminators?


THOUGHTS, and what I've learned:

  • The walls look a bit "plain". Insert bolts and thick frames here and there?
  • Drybrushing the dark grey and leaving the black in the dents/holes is a brilliant idea.
  • Filler makes for EXCELLENT fill-in for artistic stuff!